Madame Tussaude museum of Paris: a curious collection of wax figures with a concert and a theatre....
Quite apart from the other artistic establishments of Montmartre. It is an inn resembling a true cou...
Races are numbered among the most sought-for attractions of Parisian life. The public in the weighin...
Great mass is at 10 a. m. in the main churches of Paris. A much-frequented mass is at the Madeleine.
The carriage bringing the newly-married couple is adorned with orange-blossoms. The finest weddings take place at the Madeleine, Saint-Philippe-du-Roule, Saint-Augustin, Saint-Ferdinand, Sainte-Clotilde, Saint-Honoré d'Eylau, etc.
For lunch, one begins with side-dishes, always very various, or oysters; then a fish, a roast joint, a fowl or an entree, vegetables, a sweet dish, cheese and fruit. Tips: To the waiter, never less than 10 percent in great restaurants. The tip increases in proportion to the number of persons waited upon. The tip is left on the plate in which the waiter has brought L'addition (bill to pay). To the Stewart. In great restaurants, you can, if you like, tip the steward for carefully attending to you. No maximum is fixed, but you should never give less than 5 francs. To the butler. In great restaurants. Not compulsory. From 2 to 5 francs, but never less.
In play-houses, the Thursday and Sunday matinees begin at 2 or 2.30 and last till about 5. Some literary matinees take place at 4.30, chiefly at the Theatre Français, Odéon, etc.
The hour of dancing-tea is one of the first exquisite in the day. The Dancing tea-room is the very place where to meet Parisian and foreign elegancies. On account of the luxury of such establishments situated in the heart of Paris or in the Champs-Élysées and Bois de Boulogne, the price of tea is always rather high (10 to 15 frs). Those establishments are, nearly always, tastefully and comfortably fitted, according to the most modern tradition.
At the Palais de Glace, skating takes place nearby all the year round, on real ice. The morning is reserved for young ladies. From 5 to 7 society ladies and, in the evening, also half-society ones.
Calls are paid between 4 and 7 p.m.; nearly all ladies have an at-home day that should be learned. Such days are indicated, for diverse personalities, in the “Tout Paris” or the “Bottin Mondain”.
On the Grands Boulevards and the Boulevard Saint-Michel, there is an afflux of Paris gentlemen and even ladies at the terrasse of cafes. Bars are, in general, overcrowded from 7 till 8 p. m. Many foreigners, and very pretty foreign and Parisian women.
At the Opéra, Opéra-Comique, Theatre-Français and Odéon, seats should be occupied at the appointed hour. The theatre doors open at 8 p. m. and the performance begins at 8.15, 8.30, 8.45 or 9. In some comedy theatres, they still act sometimes a short play called "lever de rideau" (curtain-rise) before the principal play in 3 or 4 acts which begins only at 8 (consult the program, published by all newspapers). All theatres, music-halls, circuses; cinemas give a performance every night, except the Opera which gives only four or five per week (consult papers for dates and programs), and one on Sunday afternoon. A few theatres, such as Theatre Daunou, Grand Guignol and nearly all music-halls, also give a day's performance on Saturday. Others, such as Porte-Saint-Martin, Ambigu, Renaissance, Palais-Royal, Theatre Français, Odéon and Opéra-Comique, give a day's performance on Thursday. Lastly, the Comédie-Française and the Odéon give poetical matinees on Saturday at 4.30. All spectacles are over between 11.30 and 12 at night. The daily papers publish every day the program of each theatre and the time of performance. They also publish, every Sunday, the complete program of the week in state-subsidized theatre, as well as the much sought after first-nights frequented by a particularly select society. The only accurate program is sold inside the play-houses. Beware of programs sold in the streets before theatre- doors, which run the risk of being erroneous. During other spectacles than circus and cinema, ladies are compelled to remove their hats. In smart theatres, such as Theatre Michel, Vaudeville, Varietés, Mathurins, Potiniere, Capucines, Theatre de l'Etoile, Comedie Caumartin, Daunou, Cora-Laparcerie, and Opéra, Opéra-Comique and Theatre Francais, evening-dress is to be preferred. In order to procure seats, it is best to book them beforehand at the booking office so as to be sure of a good place. At the last moment, to avoid tiresome waiting at the theatrical office, it is preferable to procure a seat in a theatrical booking-agency, which means a slight raising of prices charged for seats secured through the medium of such agencies.
For dinners in private rooms, the bill of fare generally bears no figures and the prices are often increased by one third. At dinner, the side-dishes are replaced by a soup, which may be either preceded or followed by oysters. Generally, one begins with side-dishes, always very various, or oysters; then a fish, a roast joint, a fowl or an entree, vegetables, a sweet dish, cheese and fruit (except at dinner-parties in which the menu also comprises game, crayfish, game-pies, foie-gras, etc). A perfect meat requires the accompaniment of perfect wines! These are not lacking in France. They are sold by bottles or half-bottles. Liqueurs are sold by the liqueur- glass. This is the order in which to serve wines : After the soup: Madeira, sherry or port. After oysters, side-dishes, or fish, white wines: Chablis, Pouilly, Vouvray, Meursault, Barsac, Sauternes. With the 1st course, red wines: Saint-Emilion, Médoc or Beaujolais. With the 2nd course, red wines: Burgundy or Médoc. With the sweet dish, white wines: Montrachet, Chateau-Yquem. With the roast meat, red wines: Saint-Julien, Saint-Estôphe, Pauillac, Mercurey, Nuits, Beaune, Pommard, etc. With the foie-gras, red wines: Chateau-Lafitte, Chateau-Margaux, Richebourg, Clos-Vougeot, Saint-George. At dessert: Renowned brands of Champagne. After coffee: Renowned brands of liqueurs. Tips: To the waiter, never less than 10 percent in great restaurants. The tip increases in proportion to the number of persons waited upon. The tip is left on the plate in which the waiter has brought L'addition (bill to pay). To the Stewart. In great restaurants, you can, if you like, tip the steward for carefully attending to you. No maximum is fixed, but you should never give less than 5 francs. To the butler. In great restaurants. Not compulsory. From 2 to 5 francs, but never less. "
To the life in theatres, cafes-concerts, music-halls and balls succeeds, from midnight till 4 in the morning, life in the great night-restaurants and cabarets where one gets suppers. There is music everywhere and dancing almost everywhere. Evening dress is generally not indispensable, but it is preferable for gentlemen to wear dinner-jackets. In dancing restaurants, whatever is served after 10 p. m; is subjected to a legal tax of 25%, which extra charge should be specially mentioned in the bill.
This can be effected in two to four evenings or more, according to the time spent in each establishment. At Montmartre, in the centre of the attractions which have made of Montmartre another and smaller Paris A familiar, artistic, nay, bohemian Paris, an unconventional and don't care a fig Paris-there are restaurants, dancing-halls, taverns, cabarets and curious concerts, where a foreigner will go once or several times in order to become initiated into the intimacy of Montmartre life, to derive amusement from all sorts of scenes of so-called Montmartrois manners. Whoever has not spent an evening in Montmartre is unacquainted with pleasure-taking Paris. There are actually two Montmartres; that of night-establishments and merrymaking places adjacent to Place Pigalle and Place Blanche; and La Butte, the last vestige of the ancient village of Montmartre. The Butte or Republic of Montmartre has its own flag, its own newspaper, its Queen, a Mayor for the free Commune, a motto, and lastly an alert and ever-ready troop of jolly fellows and women fond of laughing, of good-eating, of good-drinking, and of making wildly merry without harming anyone. In Montmartre one finds, in some certain cabarets, mingled with types unique of their kind, from the rapin , i. e. the apprentice-painter, to the model, often a future half-society lady. You also come across little comedians and fair sinners who are the delight of Moulin Rouge and Moulin de la Galette. Most of these establishments have night-restaurants, dancing -halls and bars.. A foreigner wishing to treat himself to Montmartre and to see the very original attractions of the Butte has but to follow our guidance. Unless his wife be very resolute or very lenient, he had better not take her with him. The actual Montmartre cabaret life scarcely begins earlier than 11 o'clock, but it begins chiefly about midnight after the closing of theatres."
The Seine divides Paris into two parts: the right bank and the left bank. The left bank, which begins at Place Saint-Michel La Cite, the cradle of Paris, with the Palais de Justice, the Sainte-Chapelle and Notre-Dame, being a sort of connecting link between the two banks the left bank comprises the old University region, the Montagne-Sainte-Genevie've, the faubourg Saint-Germain, with the Gobelins, etc. Two far different worlds, two opposite continents will the foreigner visit on both banks of the Seine, however proximous! The right bank of the Seine includes the business world, the world of finance, the higher society, the half-society, the pleasure-taking world, in fact, the very life of Paris. The more provincial left bank is the studious one. It is chiefly the Quartier Latin, so called from its being the scholastic region. There stand the College de France, the Sorbonne, the Cluny gallery, the Luxembourg, the Pantheon, the Jardin des Plantes, the Observatory, the Gobelins, and, on the opposite side, the Ministers' offices and the Chambre des Deputes. The very centre of life in that spot is the boulevard Saint-Michel, dear to students. A little above Cluny, on the left footpath, is Le Soufflot, well known to all the young folks in the Quartier Latin. Opposite is Le Vachette, where once met so many young writers then unknown, and who afterwards became illustrious. In the rue des Ecoles, a little above Vachette, stands on the right the brasserie Balzar, where you eat excellent sauerkraut, and where you meet with poets of the latest school. Going up the boulevard you find La Source, the cafe of medical students. The Grillon cafe-concert has replaced the Steinbach, near the D'Harcourt, a noisy and tumultuous cafe. Two steps further, rue Cujas, n 3, is le Gypsy, a dancing restaurant, where one does not feel dull, about midnight, after the closing of Bullier. Still further up in the direction of the Luxembourg and Bullier, you find the Taverne du Pantheon, which opens on the rue Soufflot, opposite the Luxembourg garden. It is much sought-after on account of an underground hall where one sup while dancing merrily. Almost opposite the Taverne du Pantheon, rue Soufflot, on the right, is the cafe Muller where noisy music is made in the evening. We have still to mention the Cafe Mahieux, at the corner of rue Soufflot (one of the few quiet cafes along the Boulevard Saint-Michel), and farther on the Cafe Francois 1er where Verlaine drank many a glass of absinthe while composing his masterpieces. In the evening, the Boulevard Saint-Michel, peaceful in day-time, gets metamorphosed as night advances. In order to get a good sight of the place in its most interesting moments, one should begin one's tour about 6 p. m. First take the aperitif at Bar Gypsy, Taverne Pascal, cafe d'Harcourt or Taverne du Pantheon. For dinner, one can choose between Cafe Voltaire, opposite the Odeon, Cafe Soufflot and Cafe Vachette. If you wish to find yourself in an elegant company, it is best to decide for the Taverne du Pantheon where all students of quality and their girl-friends meet together. After 9 o'clock one will spend a few moments in the artistic cabarets.
The rue de la Gaite, behind Montparnasse station, is one of the most lively and of the most gaily popular in Paris. You should go there on a Saturday or a Sunday evening, the blessed day when workmen have received their galette (salary). The street is full of noise and bustle and the crowd is sometimes so dense one finds it difficult to elbow one's way out. Popular scenes and very picturesque dialogues.
Beside the Parisian nights on the Grands Boulevards, the joyous and love-making Paris at Maxim's, Club Daunou and the cabarets on the Butte, there is another Paris whose life begins only at night; a strange Paris, sometimes horrid, sometimes dangerous, but how interesting! It offers to the observer scenes and pictures of manners worthy of those in the Mysteries of Paris. A night-expedition in the caboulots (low wine-shops) near the Halles will bring a foreigner down into the genuine Parisian hells. This excursion is known to Parisians under the name of La Tournee des Grands-Ducs, needless to add: de Russie. It would be unsafe to venture there alone; but if you have reconnoitered the place a little by day, so as to find your way about by night, two or three resolute fellows, even accompanied with ladies, generally have not much to fear. Besides you always meet policemen ou their beats who will obligingly inform you. You can also (which is much better) apply to the Prefecture de Police for a policeman in plain clothes to escort you. This is the itinerary that may be followed by inquisitive persons like ourselves, who have gathered four together (two gentlemen and two ladies), for the purpose of exploring, at ten minutes'distance from the Grands boulevards, right in the center of Paris, a district that seems still to form part of the old XVth century Paris, and night-establishments that seem to belong only to the novels of Eugene Sue, Gaborian and Montepin. "